When it comes to Italy, the question isn’t whether you can find enough things to do, but whether you’ll have enough time to see and do everything on your ‘must-do’ list. (Chances are you won’t!) Because of the wealth of choice available, picking a region and itinerary of attractions can be a somewhat overwhelming endeavour, even for those who have been to the country in the past. Even the simple task of choosing your Italian vacation accommodation can be daunting. However, for people visiting Puglia (or Apulia, as it is otherwise known), the choice is much easier.

Puglia, the Breadbasket of Italy

It would be hard to pinpoint a ‘signature’ image for Puglia. The heel of Italy borders both the Adriatic and Ionian seas, with its coastlands, woodlands, farmlands, vineyards, olive groves, and even swamplands, existing alongside medieval hilltop villages and industrialised towns. At its heart, however, Apulia is a breadbasket, specialising in the production of food, whether as growers, ‘catchers’, or manufacturers. Farms and fishing villages still make up the bulk of its communities, and the way of life remains predominantly slow-paced and agricultural.

It is this protectiveness of the land that is so integral to their simple yet authentic way of life that has captivated the rest of Europe and the world, and has given rise to a new and fast-growing type of tourism: agriturismo. Agriturismo not only allows travellers to experience authentic Apulian life, but also offers unique and historical Italian vacation accommodation options that can only be found here: masserie and trulli. In fact, some of these places are attractions in themselves. In addition to the trulli and masserie are both modern and traditional hotels, villas, and apartments.

Where to Stay

The basic concept of agriturismo is simple. As implied by its name, agriturismo is a farm-stay, a working farm that also serves as an Italian vacation accommodation for travellers. However, if you’re imagining run-down stable-like rooms, you couldn’t be more wrong. Typical agriturismo inns are more like apartment, villa, and hotel annexes that offer beautiful and comfortable living spaces and superb services.

Masserie, for example, such as the exceptional Masseria Cupina, are grand structures that were once the main buildings of agricultural estates but that have been converted into boutique hotels (complete with swimming pools). A tour of the farm is generally included, but you won’t be expected to do any chores-although you certainly could if you wanted to! Trulli – traditional Apulian dry stone huts with conical roofs, such as the charming Trullo Pietra, which is converted into a villa – are another unique Italian vacation accommodation option available only in Puglia.

Visit Lecce

You may choose to stay close to the lovely town of Lecce. With its wealth of Baroque architecture, this is a great place to start an exploration of the province. Lecce has been described by many as the most beautiful city in Italy, with its stone buildings acquiring a cream and gold effect in the sun. Among its more than 40 churches is the Basilica di Santa Croce, which is perhaps the most ornate, with a façade featuring cherubs, magical beasts, and even the odd dodo. This can be quite a surreal sight, especially at night, when the outdoor lighting further dramatises the effect. Piazza Sant’Oronzo is another must-see in Lecce, with the massive Roman amphitheatre providing a stark contradiction to the bombastic style of the rest of the city.

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Stepping ashore from Lake Trasimeno onto the little Umbrian island of Isola Maggiore, it’s not hard to see why St Francis of Assisi once chose to live there as a hermit. A statue by the shaded lakeside commemorates his stay on the island throughout Lent in 1211, when he is said to have slept on a rock.

Today, with no traffic at all and only one small village – where the buildings along its main Via Guglielmi date from the fourteenth century – Isola Maggiore is truly unspoiled. Only the presence of a small albergo, the occasional restaurant, a gelateria, and the tiny sprinkling of kiosks around the little jetty, show any real sign that the centuries have moved on.

Paths criss-cross the island, leading up through ancient olive groves to the top of the hill, where the twelfth century Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo sits overlooking the turquoise waters of the lake. Inside this church, the ancient frescoes – some of which are attributed to the school of Giotto – are still in wonderful condition and a guide is always on hand to explain about them.

There are two further churches on the island (plus a couple more, which sadly only remain as ruins). The comparatively ornate Chiesa del Buon Gesu on Via Guglielmi can be found open most days, although the church of San Salvatore, reached via the earthen steps climbing up by the albergo Da Sauro, is generally closed.

The fishing village, as it then was, enjoyed its peak during the fourteenth century, after a Franciscan monastery was built there in 1328. Centuries later, after its closure, the Guglielmi family acquired the monastery, building a castle in the grounds in the 1880s, where they lavishly entertained guests from the mainland.

Over the centuries, Lake Trasimeno grew more and more shallow, making life for the island’s fishermen increasingly hard. As the fishing declined, so too did large numbers of the population, and with them went the Guglielmis. The family did, however, leave the strange legacy of Irish lace.

The Marchesa Elena Guglielmi introduced the Irish lace technique in the early 1900s, setting up a Lace School on the island. Today, although fewer than 20 islanders now live on Isola Maggiore, you can still see one or two ladies making lace in front of their homes, and the Lace Museum displays many exquisite examples from the island’s past.

As for the castle, in 1944 it was used for several months as an internment camp for political prisoners, then later fell into disrepair. Today, although inaccessible to the public, it is very slowly being restored.

Across from the Lace Museum stands the Casa del Capitano del Popolo (‘The Captain’s House’), which tells the history of this enchanting island.

The fishing may have declined, but it is still possible to enjoy carp, tench and pike fresh from the lake, served in any of the island’s little restaurants. Dine on a tranquil terrace as the sun sets and the water gently laps… what more could you ask?

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Driving through Europe is no small feat. There are differences in traffic signals, few signs, and language barriers to contend with. At least in Italy they drive on the same side of the road as the United States. Weaving through traffic in cities like Rome and Milan can be difficult, but the countryside poses its own set of obstacles. When planning driving vacations, spots along the way can be tricky to navigate. But, if you’ve got your heart set on doing it yourself, don’t be discouraged!

If you’ve looked into driving around Italy, you have probably already heard horror stories about the streets of Rome. To start with, the traffic during peak times is bumper-to-bumper. There aren’t really “lanes” for drivers to adhere to, so everyone crowds into the streets trying to rush to their own destinations. This can lead to some terrifying bobbing and weaving. Before you go on green, you should look both ways a few times to make sure the coast is clear.

Rental car companies are very aware of the dangers of driving in Rome. If you do decide to rent a car in the city, you can bet your insurance will be almost twice the cost of renting the car. You may actually save money by taking taxis or hiring a driver.

Experiencing the bucolic countryside is a must for many tourists. While driving in the country is much easier than in Rome or even Milan, there are still things to be aware of. Maps of the countryside don’t provide much detail, and there is a general lack of signs in rural areas. You should give yourself at least twice as much time to travel than you anticipate. If you don’t, you could very well miss that wine tasting you booked or lose your spa reservation.

Staying in a beautiful villa in Tuscany is the pinnacle of many people’s vacations. Spots like San Gimignano, a medieval town nestled in the province of Sienna, are sure to be unforgettable. However, you can’t drive within the town walls. They do have parking areas, but they quickly become packed with daytime tourists.

Be aware of the facts before you plan out any European driving vacations. Spots like Rome will be a major hassle to get through and places like San Gimignano may not allow driving at all! With proper research and planning your trip could be the experience of a lifetime.

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